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Évolution d'un système vestimentaire dans les sociétés rurales de Roumanie

Denise Pop
L'Homme
T. 24, No. 1 (Jan. - Mar., 1984), pp. 43-64
Published by: EHESS
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/25132025
Page Count: 28
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Évolution d'un système vestimentaire dans les sociétés rurales de Roumanie
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Abstract

Ayant constaté deux rythmes différents dans l'évolution des costumes populaires des sociétés rurales de Roumanie, l'auteur analyse d'une part la lente mais constante évolution morphologique, d'autre part les changements fréquents dans l'ornementation qui peuvent être assimilés aux phénomènes de mode. La diversité typologique qui s'offre de nos jours aux populations villageoises fait apparaître, à travers leurs choix vestimentaires, de nouvelles valeurs normatives. L'évolution des fonctions attribuées aux costumes traditionnels par les porteurs révèle également une mutation des fonctions festives, cérémonielles et magiques où la mode banalise et légitime des conduites individuelles passéistes. /// After showing how the development of popular dress among the rural populations of Rumania is characterized by two different rhythms, the author analyses the processes underlying both the slow but continual morphological evolution of clothing and the frequent changes in ornamentation attributable to fashion. Present-day villagers' choices from the diversity of clothing types available to them reveal the emergence of new normative values. An evolution as to the functions of traditional dress as perceived by the wearers themselves also reveals a change in the functions attributed to festive, ceremonial and magical practices in which past-orientated behaviour is legitimized and rendered commonplace by fashion.

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