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Mixing Depth Levels and Distribution on Steep Foreshores
Óscar Ferreira, Marcos Bairros, Helder Pereira, Paolo Ciavola and J. Alveirinho Dias
Journal of Coastal Research
SPECIAL ISSUE NO. 26. PROCEEDINGS OF THE PALM BEACH INTERNATIONAL COASTAL SYMPOSIUM 19-23 May 1998 (SPRING 1998), pp. 292-296
Published by: Coastal Education & Research Foundation, Inc.
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/25736152
Page Count: 5
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The results of three field experiments carried out on steep beaches from Algarve (Portugal) confirmed that a direct relationship exists between significant breaking wave height (Hbs) and average mixing depth (Zm), with Zm = 0.21Hbs for the studied data. The sand mixing depth showed a unimodal cross-shore distribution, with a minimum value at the maximum swash level and a maximum record in the lowest part of the beach face. The longshore distribution of the mixing depth and the width of the active beach face were variable from profile to profile due to the presence of beach cusps. A comparison of mixing depths between crest and through profiles was made, being found that the Zm/Hbs relationship had greater values for crests (Zm = 0.25Hbs) than for throughs (Zm = 0.18Hbs), thus indicating a dependence on beach morphology. A general equation for mixing depth determination is proposed including the beach face slope, thus allowing its use independently from the presence of different beach morphologies.
Journal of Coastal Research © 1998 Coastal Education & Research Foundation, Inc.