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Hydrodynamic Forces and Surface Topography: Centimeter-Scale Spatial Variation in Wave Forces

Michael J. O'Donnell and Mark W. Denny
Limnology and Oceanography
Vol. 53, No. 2 (Mar., 2008), pp. 579-588
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/40006442
Page Count: 10
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Hydrodynamic Forces and Surface Topography: Centimeter-Scale Spatial Variation in Wave Forces
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Abstract

We measured the variability in hydrodynamic forces among locations separated by only centimeters along three horizontal transects on a steep rocky shore. Our results extend previous work showing that wave forces have the characteristics of 1 /"f"-noise, in which variability in wave forces decreases exponentially with decreasing scales of measurement. Furthermore, our results suggest that protection from hydrodynamic forces is not a certain consequence of a rugose substratum, suggesting that investigators should directly test (rather than assume) small-scale topographic protection from hydrodynamic forces.

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